Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
For informational purposes only
A must read for beginners...
So you’re thinking
about purchasing a bearded dragon! Bearded Dragon Central suggests the first thing you do is research what
color morph you want. Raising a healthy baby bearded dragon is easy as long as its care requirements are met.
With a little planning and a little reading, you can make your baby dragons life as healthy and as stress free as possible.
Giving you the new owner a rewarding experience. The info/care sheet below is what every new owner should follow and great
success will follow. Following the care sheet below, we have consistently raised dragons to adults. During the first 6 months,
the average grow rate is approximately ½ inch a week and within 6 months your dragon can be up to 12 plus inches.
Size and Heat Bulb Info
Bearded Dragon Babies should be raised in a (20 gallon) tank for optimal
growth. This way they do not have far to look for their food, crickets stay away from bright spots so if the tank is to
big the baby dragon will have a hard time finding the crickets, and your dragon will spend most of its time basking. Use a
50-watt spot/heat bulb for a 20-gallon tank or 75-watt to 100-watt spot/heat bulb for a 30-gallon breeder tank. Place heat
bulb at one end as a basking spot for a minimum of 4 hours a day(Don’t use a heat rock, just a plain rock if you
plan on putting one inside your cage). The height of the rock or the wattage of the bulb needs to be adjusted to get the basking
spot to a 90 - 105 degree range, for the baby dragon needs to get very warm to digest its food. Set a temperature gauge on
the highest part of the rock for an hour and check the temperature… (Don’t guess.) Basking under a light is a
natural way for dragons to warm up. The spot light also warms up their belly, which aids in digestion. Make sure the other
side of the tank is staying cooler, around 80-85 degrees. This will provide the baby bearded dragon with a suitable environment
to let them regulate their body temperature. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop into the mid 70`s.
UVB Lighting Info
obtain optimal growth, the florescent light should be turned on for 10-12 hours (put on a timer). Ideally a full spectrum
light UVB BULB should be suspended over the cage but this is not vital... The UVB bulb should be within 10
inches of the basking area, so they absorb the UVB to assist in manufacturing their calcium for bone development. If
the bulb is too far from the basking area, the UVB will dissipate before reaching the dragon. UVB bulbs
are not vital if there is proper calcium with vitaminD3 supplementation in their diet and enough light intensity. If you do
not use the UVB bulb, a cool white fluorescent should be used for brightness.
baby bearded dragons the substrate should be paper towels or newspaper. **Don’t use calcium sand for baby dragons; the
sand can get impacted in the baby bearded dragons stomach. If you decide to use sand it could result in death due to a blockage
caused by the ingestion of the sand. The cage should be simple for the first 4 months or so then calcium sand can be used
in to the 5th month. Also there should be limited decorative items in the cage to prevent the crickets from hiding.
movements must be cleaned up daily. If keeping more than two or more dragons in a cage, changing paper substrate must be more
frequent to keep up on the cleanliness of the cage.
Bearded dragons require a
dry cage, but need to get a lot of water from spraying and fresh vegetables. The hatchlings should be sprayed once daily on
their heads, keep spraying directed onto their heads as long as they keep licking the water. If they don’t like to be
sprayed directly, you can set them into their shallow water bowl. This simulates the natural way dragons get water by licking
up water found in shallow riverbeds, ponds, and creeks. Some do learn quickly to drink from a shallow water dish. If you dragon
gets dehydrated or thin its necessary to get them to drink more water. Increased spraying and misting their vegetables helps.
You should always use a water dish, the water MUST be changed daily and immediately if the dish has been defecated in - it
must be cleaned as soon as possible. Baby Dragons vary on their water intake; some drink daily, others may not drink for days
and getting the needed moisture through their diet (wet greens/vegetables).
Baby Dragons have to be fed once a day
and for optimal growth twice a day. Feed 1 hour after the lights have come on to give the baby a chance to warm up. If feeding
twice a day it should be fed a couple of hours before the lights go off to give the dragon time to digest the meal. Start
with 2-5 crickets per dragon for the first feeding. Note; Excess crickets in the cage can crawl all over the dragon and can
stress them out by biting the dragon. Remove all uneaten crickets before the lights turn off at night. Baby dragons should
be fed crickets the width of their eyes (1/4-3/8 inch long) up to approximately 2 months of age, as too big of a prey item
can kill a baby dragon. A good rule of thumb is the prey item should be smaller than bigger. Dragons over 2 months can be
fed small 1/2 inch size superworms a few times a week. They will have to be mail ordered, as pet shops do not usually carry
superworms this small. As the size of the dragon increases, so should its prey. We never feed any size
mealworms as they have and can cause paralysis and death in baby dragons.
Vegetables are an important part of a
bearded dragon’s diet and should be offered daily in small size pieces on a flat plate or dish. Place the dish or plate
of vegetables on the opposite side of the tank from where the heat/spot light is located. Stick with leafy greens, such as
romaine, mustard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens, alternating when possible. Remove any hard veins from the greens.
Do not feed iceberg lettuce it can give them 'the runs' and dehydrate them. Stay away from fruits in till your dragon is 6
Supplementation calcium and vitamins should consist of dusting the crickets every feeding with a phosphorous
free calcium powder, we use Rep-Cal Calcium with Vitamin D3 pink label. We also use a vitamin supplement made by Rap-Cal called Herptivite that should be used only twice a week. Failure to use calcium with vitamin D3 regularly can cause problems in bone development.
If not using a high intensity UVB bulb, you must give the proper calcium/D3 supplements to prevent possible health problems
(Metabolic Bone Disease).
To dust crickets - put them in a cup... add Calcium or Herptivite ... shake until the
crickets are covered... and serve. If you want to feed your crickets (Gutload your crickets) before feeding them to your Dragon
check out some of the product we use. Click here for products.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to keep your Baby Bearded Dragon as stress-free
Here are a few tips on reducing the stress for your Dragon.
- Keep a regular schedule for feeding
- Put your lights on a timer to keep daylight hours consistent.
- Supplement diet with Calcium with
vitamin D3... and twice a week with Herptivite.
- Feed Gutloaded crickets they are more nutritious.
- Be careful
when handling when they are young. Especially after they eat.
- Maintain the temperature of 90-105 degrees at one end
of the tank and 80-85 degrees at the other end.
- Keep a 'basic' setup for first 6 months... making sure crickets cant
hide and remove excess crickets at night.
- Make sure their cage is cleaned…
**After you bring
your dragon home, it is common for them not to eat immediately. The stress from transporting it to a new environment may put
eating on the 'back burner' for a day or so. Give your dragon 4 hours allowing your dragon to adjust to its new home, then
you can offer it a few crickets and some chopped greens on a plate.
If your dragon does not eat by the end of
the day, remove the crickets and offer some water by spraying its head lightly. The next day, wait until your dragon heats
up to offer some crickets again. If your dragon doesn’t eat wait 1/2 a day and till it becomes more comfortable in its
new cage, this will help stimulate its appetite. If your dragon doesn’t eat offer it water again and please give
us a call.
*Outside bugs and greens have been known
to kill Bearded Dragons. These should be avoided.
*If using Calcium sand on older dragons, you MUST sift through it to
remove any of the larger pebbles.
*Feeding appropriate sized superworms and crickets are a must for baby dragons. Crickets
should be NO LONGER than the width of their eyes and if feeding superworms feed small worms.
*If using a used tank or cage its
very important to clean it good and everything in it before the new Baby Bearded Dragon is placed in side of it.
Other animals could pass on diseases.
Your Bearded Dragon thanks
you for reading this...